As you come round Cabrits headland into Portsmouth, Dominica, you are met by a smiling local guy in a brightly colored boat. It feels like a warm welcome back to a place we love. Portsmouth was full of boats, but we were expected as part of the Salty Dawg Rendezvous, and were immediately guided to a mooring. Jeremy went off to clear customs and immigration, which involved a long dinghy ride, a long walk between two different offices, and a dash back to get Anne and Marcus to sign them off the boat.

Our friends Jill and Phil were already there, and next morning we arranged to do a tour of the Indian River together, being picked up from our boats by a local guide. You can only tour the river in a guided boat, and they are not allowed to use their petrol-powered motors, so this is a relaxing trip, admiring the jungle scenery while your guide rows you upriver. This river was one of the sets used for the movie Pirates of the Caribbean, and it has the same slightly spooky feel!

On the way back, Phil and I opted to walk back through Portsmouth where there was a huge outdoor fruit and veg market (and apparently also fish, if you were early). It was a treat to stock up on local produce. Later we all had dinner together: chili with local tree spinach and tiny green peppers.

We did a taxi tour of the north part of the island, walking up to a waterfall, driving through the caldera of a volcano, and visiting some spectacular beaches on the wild east side of the island. Our driver had family in the northeast part of the island so there were frequent stops to exchange greetings (usually a fist bump, and a call of “Blessing”). We were somewhat alarmed by the strong smell of pot in the van after lunch, but made it back in one piece. The next day we hiked up to Fort Shirley at Cabrits point, and also did a drift snorkel through the bays just north of Portsmouth.

Syndicate Falls

Batibou Beach, Calabashi Beach

Red Rocks area

The Salty Dawgs Rendezvous was starting, and Anne and Marcus left, so we switched gears somewhat. Northerly swells built into the anchorage, which weren’t bad on the mooring but made it hard to take a dinghy into the dock. The PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) guides ran a water taxi and did an amazing job picking everyone up and delivering us safely ashore.

PAYS guides and boats

There were parties most nights and excursions most days. I went on a trip to the Kalinago reserve, where there is still a population of the original native people. They have seven villages as well as a visitor center. It felt a little staged, but it’s great that they’ve been able to hold onto their culture rather than being assimilated, which no other Carib or Arawak groups have been able to do.

Traditional dancing and crafts in the Kalinago village. Basketweaving is not as easy as it looks!

Another day was a trip to Paradise Valley, an amazing garden that was created in the rain forest. There were stunning plantings, as well as tastings of local fruits and juices. Afterwards we drove towards Chaudiere Pool, where we’d been promised a 10 minute hike followed by swimming and diving under a waterfall. The hike ended up taking at least 30 minutes along a muddy trail, but the waterfall lived up to its billing, and we enjoyed swimming there, even if the water was pretty cold!

Paradise Valley

Swimming at Chaudiere Pool

We had a celebratory dinner on our last evening, with dancers in costume for “Possie-Mas”, the local version of Carnival. I still haven’t figured out the name for the type of music they play – maybe Zydeco?

Next morning we were up early and left for Martinique, in company with fellow Marbleheaders Doug and Lucy Halstead on Surprise. It was a busy time in Dominica and there is plenty more we’d like to do, but we’ll be back in a couple of weeks.