The winds had finally dropped, and we left Bequia, headed for Mustique. While only 10 miles apart, the islands feel completely different. Mustique has been developed as a secluded island for the rich and famous, and has about 90 beautiful houses whose owners include Mick Jagger, Peter Lynch and Tommy Hilfiger. While there are a number of excellent moorings available in the main anchorage, visiting yachties are discouraged from venturing far from the main dock, and are definitely not allowed to wander around peering into people’s front yards. This is a place for the privileged and entitled. Nevertheless, it has a pretty harbor with very clear water, a healthy population of turtles and some nice snorkeling.

We enjoyed sundowners and a meal at Basil’s Bar, but missed “Jump-up”, which is on Wednesday nights. I walked as far along the beach as you can, poked into the two little gingerbread boutiques, and chatted with the fruit seller on the waterfront. We talked with a couple of people renting houses for Easter vacation, and frankly felt that they were a little bored! Their kids are in tennis and pony camps for much of the time, and aside from that they are around their private swimming pools, rather than messing about at the beach as they’d be doing back in Bequia. Armies of nannies and landscapers head out each morning to look after everyone. Not really my thing, but it made a pleasant stop for a couple of nights.

Next, on to the Tobago Cays, which are really the highlight of any cruise in this area. The Horseshoe Reef protects a cluster of islands and a lovely lagoon from the swells, and the colors in the water are amazing. Baradal Island is home to a turtle sanctuary, where you can reliably snorkel with turtles. Snorkeling inside the reef is not as good as it once was due to storms which have destroyed much of the coral; however there is a dinghy pass through the reef, and a dinghy mooring buoy outside where you can tie up for really excellent snorkeling. We didn’t do it this time as it looked rather choppy and the water was quite churned up; however there should be time to go back and try again. Annoyingly, my phone got submerged and has died, so I will be borrowing Jeremy’s phone and relying on my iPad and laptop until we are back home.

There are several boat guys serving the area. The islands are uninhabited, so they come out each day from Union Island, which is about a 20 minute trip for them. They seem to have got themselves quite organized: one of them will “claim” you when you will arrive. He will guide you to a mooring if you wish (we decided to anchor); offer you barbecue lobster on the beach; and bring you ice or other supplies each morning and take your trash in the evening. They have a single facility on the beach at Petit Bateau which they all share, and each boat guy has their own cook who prepares the food and takes care of the guests. Everyone eats at long tables, and it’s a fun atmosphere where charterers and live-aboards all mix.

Our boat guy was Mandy Man, who we’d actually used about 15 years ago, and his cook is Kathleen. Kathleen lives next to Seckie and Vanessa, who run a beach bar at Chatham Bay on Union Island which we’ve enjoyed visiting on prior trips. Small world/small island. These people all lost everything in Hurricane Beryl two years ago – houses, clothes, home furnishings, appliances, literally everything – and are still in need of a lot of help. I filled a bag with some things I could spare and dropped it off. The best thing we can do to help is visit the islands, be patient, and spend our money (tipping generously) to help them get back on their feet.

After a few days, persistent high cloud built in, giving us some spectacular sunsets but reducing the colors in the water during the day. We think it was Sahara dust, since the clouds had a distinctly brown tinge! We also needed to make some minor adjustments to our dinghy chaps: The dinghy nudges against the catches on our swim platform, pushing them open, and then attempts to stab itself on the protruding end. So we upped anchor and headed back to Bequia for a few days. Hopefully there will be some clear, settled weather very soon and we’ll be back!