It was time to start heading back East, and we were ready for an adventure. Our options for leaving were (1) on Tuesday, lighter winds but on the nose; (2) on Wednesday, winds from a favorable direction but blowing 25-30; (3) wait it out for another 10 days. We chose option 1, leaving the BVI just before 6 am on Tuesday. “Lighter” winds proved to be a relative term since it blew around 20 all day, and we motored into swells and adverse current. We also miscalculated our fuel consumption and the impact of the current (which was stronger than expected), and arrived at Saba after dark, with the engine running on fumes. We then had to search for a mooring in pitch dark, and grab onto it as quickly as possible as the winds built further. This anchorage is NOT well protected! Fortunately another boat was moored there and saw us, and gave us information on where to find a buoy.

We had a rough night, rather anxious about how we were going to launch our dinghy, land at the entry port around the corner, and get more diesel. We motored round to tiny Fort Bay Harbour and were relieved to find two more visitor moorings not far outside the breakwaters. This is a very small island with no natural harbors, so the wind and swells just bend round every point and there’s no real protection anywhere. That’s part of its charm: it’s really hard to get to! The visitor mooring was rough and the wind continued to howl, but we got ashore in the dinghy without drama. Super-helpful Harbor Master Lionel met us to take our lines, directed us to customs and immigration, and then contacted the owner of the only gas station on the island who gave us a ride. We bought jerry cans of diesel, and took them out to the boat. Phew!

Now it was time to explore, so we took a taxi to Windwardside, the main town, which is perched high up on the side of the volcano. There’s so little flat ground on the island that houses are crammed together on steep hillsides. They show their Dutch heritage in the stone walls, stucco and red roofs. The town is charming with good restaurants and an eclectic mix of people. The main things to do here are diving and hiking: We weren’t really dressed for serious hiking but we ventured a little way along a couple of trails and found we were immediately in rain forest.

Later on we took a taxi tour to see some more of the island. It’s a tiny place, with only about 1300 people living there, including the students at a local medical school. Everyone seems to know each other, and to go out of their way to help you.

We didn’t want to spend the night at the Fort Bay anchorage so we went back to the boat and returned to the main anchorage at Ladder Bay. This used to be the only way onto the island: Goods were landed on a tiny beach and then carried up 800 steps! The evening light made the cliffs glow, birds soared high above us, and we marveled at this amazingly rugged place.

Conditions continued rough all night, so we left early in the morning and continued East; however we enjoyed the views looking back at Saba for several more hours on our way. This was a fascinating place and we’re glad to have visited.