Sandwiched between two stays in Tobago Cays (more about that in another post), we visited Union Island and Mayreau. These two islands were devastated by Hurricane Beryl in 2024 and we weren’t sure what we’d find.

First stop was Chatham Bay on the back side of Union Island. This is a favorite spot, which used to be lined with half a dozen casual beach bars and restaurants, and one upmarket resort at the far end of the beach. All of it was destroyed in the hurricane, leaving little but concrete slabs. Since then, the resort has been mostly rebuilt but seemed deserted. Two of the restaurants are open for business: Sunset Cove, and Seckie and Vanessa. The cheerful wooden structures we remember are gone, and for now they are operating under tents and tarps, and using a motley collection of tables and chairs. The locals are doing what they can to attract tourists, and are trying to re-landscape their beach. Hopefully next time we go back they will be in better shape. Meanwhile everyone was welcoming, and the food was good.

On our first afternoon I was able to inflate my paddle board and go out to explore. We also went ashore to Sunset Cove for sundowners.

We first ate at Seckie and Vanessa’s in 2013 so we were glad to see them back in business. We showed them a photo we took back then, and they asked for a copy since they had lost most of their photos in the hurricane.

Seckie and Vanessa’s: 2013 and 2026

We went on a walking tour with Alex, who took us up to the ridge above the bay and over to an old fort. Not many ruins to see there but the views down into the bay were wonderful. The tourist season is almost at an end, and everyone needs to make as much money as they can, and we were glad to help.

After a few days we moved over to Mayreau, which is only about 5 miles away, and anchored in Saline Bay. The population is only around 300 people, meaning that there is a strong sense of helping each other rather than waiting for the government to show up. In fact, we learned that there were elections last November, and residents are still waiting for the new administration to follow through on their promises of aid.

We walked into the town for a look around and were pleasantly surprised. This is a place that has seemed very run-down in the past, but it seems to have built back quite successfully. Most houses had been rebuilt – or at least had roofs – and there were a number of stores, bars and restaurants open for business. Dennis’s Hideaway, which we first visited about 35 years ago, is alive and well. The church at the top of the island doesn’t have a roof yet but has magnificent views over to the Tobago Cays. We chatted with Robert Righteous and visited his ramshackle bar, which he rebuilt with the help of donations from the US and the help of a group of people who came to work with him last year. The water was very clear and the winds were finally down, so we enjoyed swimming in the bay and I got the paddle board out (it hasn’t seen much use this season due to the strong trades).

Robert Righteous Bar

Friends on Morning Bird and That Way arrived, and we walked together over to Salt Whistle Bay, which is a popular spot with cruisers. Many of the beach restaurants are gone, and those that remain are in poor shape. The bay lacked the lively vibe we’ve experienced before and we were glad to have been in Saline Bay instead. From there we picked up the Turtle Trail, which goes along beaches and over headlands along the east side of the island down to Ranch Escapade, which was a fun spot for lunch. A short walk had us back at Saline Bay for a swim. We also had dinner on shore the next night and saw our first clear sunset in weeks – we think there was a green flash but I didn’t catch it in the photo – you’ll have to take my word for it!

Salt Whistle Bay

On the Turtle Trail

Ranch Escapade

The next morning was sunny and calm so it was time to head back to Tobago Cays. We were glad to have stopped in Union and Mayreau and wish them the best.